If your building runs on card readers, keypads, or a buzzer at the front counter, there is a good chance an electric strike is doing the quiet work behind the scenes. It sits in the door frame, holds the latch until an access control system tells it to let go, and locks again the moment the door closes. When it works, nobody notices. When it fails, staff get locked out, a fire door stops latching, or a rear entrance sits unsecured overnight.
Electric strikes are one of the most common ways GTA businesses add controlled access to a door without replacing the whole lock. They are also one of the easiest pieces of hardware to specify incorrectly, because a single wrong choice between fail-safe and fail-secure can either lock people in during an emergency or leave a door wide open during a power cut. This guide walks through how electric strikes work, the fail-safe versus fail-secure decision, how they compare to magnetic locks and electric latch retraction, what the Ontario Building Code allows on exit and fire doors, and how to keep them running. It builds on our overview of commercial door locks and the broader guide to commercial door hardware, going much deeper on the electrified side.
What is an electric strike?
An electric strike is an access control device that replaces the fixed metal strike plate on a door frame. Instead of a solid plate, it has a hinged section called a keeper that can pivot open on an electrical signal from a keypad, card reader, intercom, or push button. That releases the latch so the door can be pushed open without turning the handle, then the keeper springs back and the door relatches when it closes.
The lock itself, usually a cylindrical or mortise lockset, stays in place. The electric strike only controls whether the latch is held or released on the frame side. That is why it is such a popular retrofit: you keep the existing door and lock, and add controlled entry by swapping the strike and running low-voltage wiring to it.
Electric strike vs a standard strike plate
A standard strike plate is a stamped piece of metal with a hole for the latch. It does one job, which is to give the latch somewhere to sit. An electric strike does that too, but its keeper can be commanded to move. The outside handle stays locked, yet the door can still be released electrically for authorized entry while people inside always exit freely by operating the lever or pushing the panic hardware. That last point matters for code, and we come back to it below.
What does an electric strike look like?
Most electric strikes look like a taller, deeper strike plate set into the frame, with a faceplate on the surface and a body recessed into the jamb. A thin low-voltage cable runs out the back into the frame. Surface-mounted models sit on top of the frame instead of inside it, which is common on aluminum storefront and glass doors where there is little depth to work with. You will usually find the strike on the latch side of the frame, opposite the hinges.
How an electric strike works
Inside the strike is a small solenoid or motor connected to the keeper. In the resting state the keeper is held firmly so the latch cannot pull through, and the door is locked from the outside. When someone presents valid credentials, the access control panel sends power to the strike, the internal mechanism releases the keeper, and it is free to pivot. The person pushes or pulls the door, the latch swings the keeper out of the way, and they are in. As soon as the door shuts, the latch drops back into the keeper and the door is secure again.
The behaviour on the inside never changes. Someone leaving turns the lever or presses the panic bar or exit device, the latch retracts, and they walk out. The electric strike has no say over egress, which is exactly why it is friendlier to fire and life-safety code than some other electrified options.
Monitored vs non-monitored strikes
Basic strikes just release and relatch. Monitored strikes add sensors that report back to the access control system. Latchbolt monitoring confirms the latch is actually seated in the keeper, and keeper or strike monitoring confirms the keeper is closed. That feedback tells the system whether a door is truly secured or has been left ajar, and it is often paired with a door position switch and a request-to-exit sensor for a complete picture. On a fire-rated door, latchbolt monitoring is worth having, because it verifies the positive latching a fire door depends on.
Fail-safe vs fail-secure: the choice that trips people up
This is the single most important decision when you specify an electric strike, and it is where a lot of mistakes happen. It describes what the strike does when it loses power.
Fail-secure means the door stays locked when power is removed. Power is applied only briefly to unlock it. Fail-safe means the door unlocks when power is removed, and power has to be present continuously to keep it locked. According to Allegion, the distinction is exactly that: fail safe is unlocked when power is removed, fail secure is locked when power is removed. The direction of the logic changes everything about how the opening behaves in a power outage or a fire alarm.
| Question | Fail-secure | Fail-safe |
|---|---|---|
| On power loss the door is | Locked (stays secure) | Unlocked (opens freely) |
| Power is used to | Unlock briefly | Keep it locked |
| Typical duty | Intermittent | Continuous |
| Fire-rated doors | Required | Not permitted |
| Good for | Most exterior and secured doors | Stairwell re-entry, some controlled egress |
| Security in an outage | Stays locked | Opens, area unsecured |
When fail-secure is required
Fail-secure is the default for most doors, and it is mandatory on fire-rated openings. A fire door has to keep positive latching so it holds shut against the pressure of a fire, and a fail-safe strike cannot provide that. Allegion is blunt about it: fail-secure electric strikes are required for fire-rated doors, because fail-safe strikes cannot provide the positive latching and the listings required by NFPA 80, the standard for fire doors and other opening protectives. Fail-secure also keeps a door locked during a power cut, so an exterior entrance is not left open every time the grid blinks.
When fail-safe is right
Fail-safe has its place, mostly on doors that must release people during an emergency or a power failure. Stairwell doors that need re-entry, for example, use fail-safe electromechanical locks or electrified panic hardware so the stair side unlocks on a fire alarm and occupants can leave the stair if they have to. The trade-off is real. As Allegion points out, a fail-safe opening unlocks and allows free access every time there is a power failure, so you have to decide whether that is acceptable for that specific door. For a deeper look at how these choices interact with life safety, see our guide to electric strikes on fire doors from Allegion’s code team.
Electric strike vs magnetic lock vs electric latch retraction
Electric strikes are one of three common ways to electrify a commercial door. The other two are the electromagnetic lock, usually called a mag lock, and electric latch retraction, or ELR, built into panic hardware. They solve different problems, and picking the wrong one creates both security gaps and code headaches.
| Feature | Electric strike | Magnetic lock | Electric latch retraction |
|---|---|---|---|
| Where it sits | In the frame, replaces the strike plate | Top of frame plus armature on door | Inside the panic bar on the door |
| Holds the door by | Holding the latch | Magnetic bond, no latch | Holding the exit device latch retracted or projected |
| Fail mode | Fail-secure or fail-safe | Always fail-safe | Usually fail-secure |
| Positive latching for fire doors | Yes, fail-secure listed models | No, cannot latch | Yes, latch still projects |
| Extra egress rules in Ontario | Minimal, egress unaffected | Strict, tied to fire alarm and manual release | Minimal, push bar always exits |
| Best for | Single doors with a latching lock | Glass and frameless doors, gates | High-traffic exits needing controlled entry |
Magnetic lock
A mag lock uses an electromagnet on the frame and a steel plate on the door. When powered, the magnet bonds to the plate and holds the door shut, often with a very strong holding force. It has no latch and no moving parts. Because it holds only while powered, a mag lock is always fail-safe: cut the power and the magnetic bond is gone, so the door releases. That is convenient for glass and frameless doors, but it means a mag lock cannot provide positive latching, so it is not used on fire doors, and Ontario adds several egress conditions before you can use one on an exit door at all. More on that below.
Electric latch retraction
ELR is built into a panic bar or exit device. On a signal, a motor pulls the latch back electrically so the door can be pulled open from outside without touching the bar, which is handy for busy entrances that need to be released during business hours and locked after. The exit device still latches mechanically, so it keeps positive latching for fire doors, and people inside always exit by pushing the bar. ELR draws a heavy inrush current when it retracts, so it needs a properly sized power supply, which is a common reason these installs go wrong.
Which one for your building
If you have a standard swinging door with a good lockset and want controlled entry, an electric strike is usually the cleanest and most economical choice. If the door is all glass with no room for a latch, a mag lock may be the only option, and you accept the extra egress wiring. If it is a high-traffic exit that also serves as a monitored entrance, ELR panic hardware is often the right tool. We help GTA businesses weigh these against each other as part of a broader look at commercial door security upgrades.
Types of electric strikes
Electric strikes are grouped by how they mount and by the lock they are designed to work with. Matching the strike to both the frame and the lock is what makes the difference between a clean install and a door that never quite latches right.
| Type | How it mounts | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Mortise / recessed | Cut into the frame, hidden | Hollow metal and wood frames, clean look, higher security |
| Surface-mounted | Sits on top of the frame | Aluminum storefront and glass doors with little depth |
| Cylindrical lock strike | Sized for a bored lockset latch | Most common interior and light exterior doors |
| Mortise lock strike | Sized for a mortise latch and sometimes deadlatch | Heavier commercial and institutional doors |
| Rim exit device strike | Matches a surface rim panic latch | Doors with rim panic hardware |
By mounting
Mortise or recessed strikes are let into the frame so only the faceplate shows. They suit steel and hollow metal doors and frames and give a tidy, tamper-resistant result. Surface-mounted strikes bolt onto the face of the frame and are the go-to for aluminum storefront systems, where there is no room to recess anything into a narrow tube frame.
By the lock they serve
A strike has to match the latch it captures. A cylindrical (bored) lockset needs a strike shaped for its latch, a mortise lock needs one deep enough for its latch and often its auxiliary deadlatch, and a rim exit device needs a strike built to catch a surface latch. Using a mismatched strike is one of the most common reasons a retrofit door drags, rattles, or fails to secure.
Security grades and standards
Electric strikes are covered by their own standard, ANSI/BHMA A156.31, the Standard for Electric Strikes and Frame Mounted Actuators. According to the Builders Hardware Manufacturers Association, a Grade 1 electric strike must pass 500,000 cycles of opening and closing and still be fully functional at the end, and the security testing includes a 1,500 pound static test at both 100 percent and 75 percent of rated voltage. For an exterior or high-traffic door, a Grade 1 rating is the level worth asking for.
Power, voltage, and duty
Electric strikes run on low voltage, most commonly 12 or 24 volts, and many field-selectable models let the installer choose between them. They also come in AC or DC versions, and the difference is audible. An AC strike produces a steady buzz while it is energized, which some businesses use as a signal that the door is released. A DC strike is silent, which is what most offices and clinics prefer.
Duty is the other half of the wiring picture. A fail-secure strike is normally intermittent duty, energized only for the few seconds it takes to let someone through. A fail-safe strike is continuous duty, powered constantly to stay locked, so it needs a power supply rated to run all day without overheating. Get the power supply and wire gauge right for the run length, and the strike behaves. Undersize them, and you get weak release, chatter, or a strike that works at the panel but not at the door.
| Spec | What to know |
|---|---|
| Voltage | 12 or 24 VDC most common, many are field-selectable |
| AC vs DC | AC buzzes when released, DC is silent |
| Fail-secure duty | Intermittent, powered only to unlock |
| Fail-safe duty | Continuous, powered to stay locked |
| Power supply | Sized to the strike, often with battery backup |
| Wiring | Correct gauge for the run to avoid voltage drop |
Electric strikes and access control
An electric strike is only one part of a controlled door. On its own it just releases when it gets power. To turn that into a real access system, it connects to the pieces that decide who gets in and record what happens.
A typical setup pairs the strike with a reader or keypad at the door, an access control panel or controller in a back room, a power supply, and often a request-to-exit sensor and a door position switch. The reader checks the credential, the controller decides whether to grant access, and if it does, it powers the strike to release. The request-to-exit device tells the system a person leaving is authorized, so an alarm does not trip when the door opens from inside. The door position switch reports whether the door is open or closed. Add latchbolt monitoring and the system also knows whether the door truly relatched.
If you are moving from mechanical keys to this kind of setup, it usually pairs with rekeying or upgrading the underlying commercial door locks and reviewing the whole opening, since a controlled door is only as strong as its weakest hinge, closer, and frame. A worn door closer that lets the door drift instead of closing firmly will defeat even a perfect strike, because the latch never seats.
Ontario code and egress: what the law requires
This is where GTA businesses get into trouble, because electrified hardware sits right on top of life-safety rules. The good news is that a plain electric strike is one of the friendlier options, since it never controls how people leave. The rules get much stricter for magnetic locks. Everything here should be confirmed against the current Ontario Building Code and your local authority, and our checklist on whether your doors are up to Ontario Building Code is a good starting point.
One releasing operation for exit
The core rule is simple. Ontario Building Code Article 3.4.6.16 requires that an exit door open from the inside with not more than one releasing operation, without keys, special devices, or specialized knowledge. An electric strike does not interfere with this, because someone inside still just operates the lever or pushes the panic bar and walks out. That is a big part of why strikes are so widely accepted on exit doors.
Electric strikes on fire-rated doors
On a fire door, the strike has to be fail-secure and listed. NFPA 80, the standard for fire doors, permits electric strikes to be used in place of conventional strikes in single doors and pairs of doors where the published listings allow it. The key detail Allegion’s code team highlights is that fail-secure strikes carry UL labels for both fire and burglary, while fail-safe strikes only have burglary ratings, so only a fail-secure, fire-labeled strike belongs on a fire door. Pair that with the requirements in our fire-rated door checklist and the Ontario fire door requirements so the whole assembly stays compliant.
Magnetic locks and the extra conditions
Magnetic locks are where Ontario draws a hard line, because a mag lock holds the door shut with no latch and could trap people if it did not release. Under Article 3.4.6.16, an electromagnetic lock without a latch is only permitted on an exit door when a set of conditions is met together.
| Condition for a mag lock on an exit door |
|---|
| The building has a fire alarm system as required by the Code |
| The lock releases immediately when the fire alarm signal is activated |
| The lock releases immediately on loss of power to the fire alarm control panel |
| A manual release switch for authorized staff is installed near the main entrance |
| The lock releases when a manual pull station within reach of the door is activated |
| A sign in prescribed lettering states the exit is unlocked by the fire alarm |
| The lock requires a manual reset after it releases |
| Emergency lighting is provided at the doors |
The Code also flatly prohibits electromagnetic locks on some openings, including exit doors serving assembly occupancies with more than 100 people, exit doors in schools, and exit doors from high-hazard industrial spaces. Because these conditions are detailed and enforced on inspection, a mag lock is not a do-it-yourself project. An electric strike on a latching door usually avoids this whole category, which is another reason it is often the simpler path to controlled access.
Accessibility
Controlled doors still have to be usable by everyone. Under the Accessibility for Ontarians with Disabilities Act, entrances on a barrier-free path need to be operable without tight grasping or twisting, and adding electrified access is a natural moment to check clear width and operating force. Our guides on accessible door width and accessible storefront entrances cover what to confirm. If the entrance also needs power operation, an automatic door operator can be tied into the same access control so a valid credential both unlocks and opens the door.
Choosing an electric strike by building type
The right strike depends on the door, the traffic, and what the space has to protect. Here is how the choice usually shakes out across common GTA property types.
| Property | Typical choice | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Retail storefront | Surface-mount, fail-secure | Aluminum glass doors, stays locked in outages |
| Office suite | Mortise strike, fail-secure, DC | Clean look, silent, card-reader entry |
| Warehouse rear entry | Grade 1 recessed, fail-secure | Security on a low-visibility door |
| Medical clinic | Monitored, fail-secure | Audit trail, controlled areas |
| Fire-rated stair or corridor door | Fail-secure, fire-listed, monitored | Positive latching required |
| Restaurant back door | Fail-secure with REX | Staff exit freely, entry stays controlled |
| Multi-tenant lobby | Strike or ELR with intercom | Buzz-in and after-hours control |
Common electric strike problems and likely causes
When a controlled door starts acting up, the strike is often blamed, but the real cause is just as likely to be the power supply, the wiring, or the door alignment. Here is how the usual symptoms map to their causes.
| Symptom | Likely cause |
|---|---|
| Door will not release on a valid credential | Blown fuse, dead power supply, cut or loose wire, failed solenoid |
| Strike buzzes but latch will not pass | Misaligned door or frame, latch binding on the keeper, sagging hinges |
| Door does not relock after closing | Keeper stuck, weak or maladjusted closer, debris in the pocket |
| Weak or intermittent release | Voltage drop from undersized wire or overloaded supply |
| Constant loud buzzing | AC strike wired continuous, or wrong voltage supplied |
| Door rattles or feels loose | Worn keeper, loose faceplate screws, frame movement |
| Access system reports door forced or held | Failed latchbolt monitor, door position switch out of alignment |
Many of these trace back to the door itself rather than the electronics. If the door sags, drags, or makes a grinding noise, or if worn hinges have let it drop, the latch will not line up with the keeper no matter how good the strike is.
Repair vs replace an electric strike
Not every strike problem means a new strike. Wiring, power, and alignment issues are fixable, and they cause most callouts. A strike is worth replacing when the body or keeper is worn out, the solenoid has failed, or the wrong type was fitted in the first place.
| Repair or adjust | Replace |
|---|---|
| Loose screws or faceplate | Worn keeper that no longer holds the latch |
| Voltage drop from wiring or supply | Failed solenoid or internal mechanism |
| Door or hinge alignment | Fail mode is wrong for the door, for example fail-safe on a fire door |
| Closer adjustment so the door seats | Strike not listed for a fire-rated opening |
| Reconnecting a monitor sensor | Cracked or corroded body on an exterior door |
The same logic we use across all hardware applies here: fix the small stuff, replace what is worn or non-compliant. Our broader take on repair versus replacement walks through how to make that call for a whole door and frame.
Installation and what a proper job involves
A good electric strike install is as much about the frame, the power, and the door as it is about the strike. The strike has to be cut into or mounted on the frame so the keeper lines up exactly with the latch. The faceplate and mounting have to be solid, because a strike that moves will chatter and eventually fail. The right power supply has to feed it, sized for the strike type and, on important doors, backed up so a card reader still works during a short outage.
Then it all has to be tied together. The reader or keypad, the controller, the request-to-exit device, and any door position or latch monitor have to be wired and programmed so the door releases for the right people and reports the right status. On a fire door, the whole assembly has to keep its rating, which means the correct listed strike and no modifications that void the label. Because this crosses electrical, hardware, and code, most GTA businesses have it done by a team that handles commercial door installation and hardware together, rather than splitting it between trades. If a door is already failing or unsecured, it may be an emergency repair rather than a planned upgrade.
Electric strike maintenance
Electric strikes are low-maintenance, but they are not no-maintenance. A few minutes on a schedule prevents the lockouts and unsecured doors that come from a strike quietly wearing out. The checks below fold neatly into a wider hardware routine.
| Interval | Task |
|---|---|
| Monthly | Test release from the reader and by request-to-exit, confirm relatching |
| Monthly | Listen for abnormal buzzing or a keeper that does not spring back |
| Quarterly | Check faceplate screws, keeper wear, and latch alignment |
| Quarterly | Verify the closer still seats the door firmly into the strike |
| Twice a year | Inspect wiring terminations and power supply, test battery backup |
| Yearly | On fire doors, verify positive latching and monitored status |
What an electric strike costs
Cost depends far more on the whole opening than on the strike alone. The strike is a modest piece of the budget. What moves the number is the type of strike, whether the frame has to be cut, the length and complexity of the wiring run, the power supply and any battery backup, and the access control gear on the door.
A simple surface-mount strike on an existing storefront door with power nearby is a small job. A recessed, fire-listed, monitored strike on a steel frame with a long wire run back to a new controller, a reader, and a request-to-exit sensor is a much larger one. The honest way to price it is a site visit, because the door, the frame, and the wiring path decide most of the cost. We give GTA businesses a clear, itemized quote as part of our commercial door services so there are no surprises.
Frequently asked questions
What is an electric strike?
An electric strike is an access control device that replaces the fixed strike plate on a door frame. Its hinged keeper releases on an electrical signal from a reader, keypad, or button so the door can be pushed open, then relatches when the door closes. The lock and the way people exit stay the same.
What is the difference between fail-safe and fail-secure?
Fail-secure stays locked when power is lost and is powered briefly to unlock. Fail-safe unlocks when power is lost and needs continuous power to stay locked. Fail-secure is the default and is required on fire doors. Fail-safe is used where a door must release people during a power failure, such as certain stairwell doors.
How much does an electric strike cost?
The strike itself is a small part of the total. The real cost drivers are the strike type, whether the frame must be cut, the wiring run, the power supply and backup, and the reader or keypad on the door. A simple surface-mount retrofit is inexpensive, while a recessed, fire-listed, monitored strike tied into a new access control system costs more. A site visit gives an accurate number.
What does an electric strike look like?
It resembles a taller, deeper strike plate with a faceplate on the frame and a body recessed into the jamb, with a hinged keeper and a thin low-voltage wire running into the frame. Surface-mounted versions sit on top of the frame, which is common on aluminum storefront doors.
Can I use an electric strike on a double door?
Yes. On a pair of doors, the electric strike is typically fitted to the active leaf, working with the lock or exit device on that leaf, while the inactive leaf is held by flush bolts or a coordinator. The strike still has to match the lock type, and on fire-rated pairs it must be a fail-secure, listed model.
What is the difference between an electric hinge and an electric strike?
They do different jobs. An electric strike controls whether the latch is released to let someone in. An electric hinge, or power transfer hinge, is simply how low-voltage power crosses from the frame into the door to feed hardware mounted on the door itself, such as an electrified lock or exit device. A door can use both.
Does an electric strike lock the door on its own?
No. The lockset provides the actual locking with its latch. The electric strike only decides whether that latch is held in the frame or released. That is why a good lock, closer, and frame matter as much as the strike itself.
Do electric strikes affect how people exit in an emergency?
No, and that is a key advantage. People inside always exit by operating the lever or pushing the panic bar, exactly as they would with a normal strike plate. The electric strike only controls entry from outside, which keeps it clear of the egress problems that magnetic locks create.
Are electric strikes allowed on fire doors in Ontario?
Yes, if the strike is fail-secure and listed for fire door use. NFPA 80 permits electric strikes in place of conventional strikes where the published listings allow it, and a fire door depends on positive latching, which only a fail-secure listed strike provides on the frame side.
Do I need a special power supply for an electric strike?
Yes. The strike needs a low-voltage power supply matched to its voltage and duty. Fail-secure strikes draw power only briefly, while fail-safe strikes draw it continuously and need a supply rated for that. Important doors often add battery backup so a reader still works during a short outage.
Why does my electric strike buzz?
A steady buzz usually means it is an AC strike, which hums whenever it is energized. Some businesses use that as an audible release cue. If a DC strike buzzes, or an AC strike buzzes constantly, it points to the wrong voltage or a wiring fault, which is worth checking.
My door will not relock after someone enters. What is wrong?
The most common causes are a keeper that is sticking, a weak or maladjusted door closer that does not seat the latch firmly, or debris in the strike pocket. Alignment from sagging hinges or a settled frame can also stop the latch from dropping fully into the keeper.
Electric strike or magnetic lock, which is better?
For a standard door with a latching lock, an electric strike is usually simpler, keeps positive latching, and avoids the extra egress wiring Ontario requires for mag locks. A magnetic lock is mainly for glass or frameless doors with no latch, and it comes with strict fire-alarm and manual-release conditions on exit doors.
What is a request-to-exit device and do I need one?
A request-to-exit sensor, often a motion detector or a switch in the push bar, tells the access control system that someone leaving is authorized so the door opening from inside does not trigger an alarm. It is standard on monitored doors and helps keep egress clean while still tracking the opening.
How long do electric strikes last?
A quality Grade 1 strike is tested to 500,000 cycles, so on a normal commercial door it lasts many years. Lifespan drops when the door is out of alignment, the closer is weak, or the power is wrong, because the strike is then fighting the door on every cycle.
Can an electric strike be added to my existing door?
Usually yes. That is the main appeal. The strike replaces the strike plate and works with your current lock, so you keep the door and add controlled entry. The frame type, the lock type, and the wiring path decide how involved the retrofit is, which a quick assessment can confirm.
Get controlled access done right
An electric strike is a small piece of hardware that carries a lot of responsibility, from who gets into your building to whether a fire door latches the way the Code demands. Getting the fail-safe versus fail-secure choice right, matching the strike to the lock and frame, sizing the power, and keeping egress clean is what separates a system that just works from one that causes lockouts and compliance problems. If you are adding access control, upgrading old hardware, or troubleshooting a door that will not release or relock, our team can assess the opening and handle it end to end. Reach out through our contact page or learn more about our commercial door repair across Toronto and the GTA.
